Should Beauty Trump Authenticity?

Stunning photographs of disappearing tribes from Jimmy Nelson's new book, Before They Pass Away, have been circulating recently online. Undoubtedly beautiful images, the work has been praised as, "epic portraits that present these dignified inheritors of noble and age-old traditions in a proud spirit and in all their glory—a unique visual experience."Critics offer another point of view as posted in the comments section on Fast Company's website:

This is disturbing. It has popped up a number of times on my newsfeed. It is yet another white westerner's fascination with the authentic and exotic 'other'. This book is totally reminiscent of nineteenth century Social Darwinism and the euro centric belief that 'primitive' cultures were destined to die out when confronted with European 'civilisation'.

I thought what an amazing project then I saw his work on Maori in New Zealand. That is bullshit. No Maori dress like that now and haven't for at least 100 years or more. This is total fabrication. Such a disappointment.

I also wonder about the ethics of such a project since Nelson admits that he couldn't communicate verbally with most of his subjects? Nelson also said "They risk abandoning their authenticity and go towards the material world.” I wonder how much money he will make from his own little piece of material culture.

Nelson says, "I didn't start this project anticipating that I could stop the world from changing. I purely wanted to create a visual document that reminds us and generations to come of how beautiful the human world once was."The controversy surrounding Nelson's work is not new; the beauty of these images brings to mind the work of Edward Curtis. During the early part of the 1900s Curtis undertook a project of photographing Native Americans that would span thirty years, and stir up issues of authenticity and ethics along the way.Creating what many felt were overly romanticized images, Curtis was accused of image manipulation when it was discovered that he had retouched images to remove elements of civilization—as he did in one image that proudly displayed an alarm clock. Some also felt it was not authentic documentation since he posed his subjects and asked them to don ceremonial headdresses and leggings. Curtis felt his portraits gave face to the indigenous peoples of North America, who were threatened by extinction.This question isn't unique to disappearing human cultures; the adoption of the polar bear as a mascot in the fight against global warming raises the same types of questions. Portrayed in Coca-cola ads as pure and adorable creatures, real polar bears have been documented eating their own cubs. One can understand how the cute and adorable polar bear image would engage more supporters than a blood-thirsty cannibal.At the heart of this debates lies the never-ending question that photographers and graphic designers alike wrestle with: what's more important—authenticity—or creating awareness, empathy, and support?Sources:http://www.fastcoexist.com/3021773/see-these-heartbreaking-photos-of-worlds-disappearing-cultures-before-they-fade-awayhttp://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2013/11/04/lost-tribes-before-they-pass-away-jimmy-nelson-_n_4212518.htmlhttp://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/12/books/short-nights-of-the-shadow-catcher-by-timothy-egan.htmlhttp://www.loc.gov/pictures/collection/ecur/item/96515425/resource/http://www.coca-colacompany.com/stories/coke-lore-polar-bearshttp://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2071638/Polar-bears-Cannibal-pictures-prove-theyll-eat-bear-cubs.html

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Un-hate, or unethical?

Benetton's recent release of the "Unhate" ad campaign has caused a firestorm of controversy. The goal of their campaign is a worthy one—to contribute to a new culture of tolerance and to combat hatred. The UNHATE Campaign is the first in a series of initiatives involving community. In addition to the UNHATE Campaign, the UNHATE Foundation, founded by the Benetton Group, is planning a Global "UNHATE Day" with events scheduled for 50 different cities around the world, including Europe, Asia, and Latin America. Other initiatives include "Art for Tolerance," which will support the talent and work of young people living in areas where hatred has generated social injustice and conflicts.Unfortunately, one of the first efforts of their campaign has already been recalled. The photoshopped image of the Pope and Al-Azhar Mosque locked in a kiss caused the Vatican to respond with furious protests. Vatican spokesman Federico Lombardi stated, "This is a grave lack of respect for the Pope. We cannot help but express a resolute protest at the entirely unacceptable use of a manipulated image of the Holy Father, used as part of a publicity campaign which has commercial ends.” The Vatican demanded that the image be removed from the campaign and is taking legal action to ensure the doctored image isn't distributed.The White House also released a statement that they have a long-standing policy disapproving of the use of the president's name and likeness for commercial purposes. Despite this, Benetton ads showing President Obama kissing Hugo Chavez are expected to appear in upcoming issues of "Newsweek," "New York Magazine," and the "Economist." Sources say that Benetton did run it by their legal department, getting informed about the consequences they could expect to face when receiving complaints.Benetton has a long history of using advertising to promote social messages. In the 1990s Tibor Kalman created "The United Colors of Benetton," a product-based series of multicultural kids promoting ethnic and racial harmony. Next came the creation of Colors, a magazine produced by Benetton for which Kalman became editor-in-chief. The goal for Benetton was to suggest they had a social conscience. The goal for Kalman was to create a platform for socio-economic issues.What do you think about the UNHATE campaign? Did they intentionally proceed with what many view as unethical behavior through photo manipulation, ignoring image usage rights to promote tolerance and influence culture, or is it merely a means to a commercial end—and bad use of photoshop as many contend?Sources:http://unhate.benetton.com/foundation/http://unhate.benetton.com/http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/fashion/benetton-yanks-smooching-pope-ad-unhate-campaign-vatican-threatened-legal-action-article-1.979430?localLinksEnabled=falsehttp://www.missfashionnews.com/2011/11/16/unhate-benetton/http://www.aiga.org/medalist-tiborkalman/

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